this and that on life in the tropics...

On life in Malawi
A dugout painted white with Arsenal written large on it (correct font and all) paddling past in the morning.
HIV+ night watchman coughing outside in the night. (On ARV's so looking good - has 4 small kids and is only about 25...)
The cheeriness of Malawians - Ashun and Mabvuto, our gardeners/cleaners, forgotten by Vincent the boatman on early morning run to Domwe to poop scoop - uproarious laughter from everyone. Such lightness. Returning later that day having scooped poop out of the dry composter loos after 16 people had been on the island for 6 days! "Lots of poopoo!!" and lots of laughter again.
Walking along the dusty, bumpy village road which meanders around baobabs of at least 300 years old.
Electricity outages in the evening - all you hear is children laughing and playing all over the village. Families sit out on their stoeps or in the road, sharing the nsima and relish (lelish). Relish is a stew made from beans or fish or meat (usually goat).
The fabric of village life is still intact here - families are still together and old traditions still bind them. Land is passed down through the female line her, interestingly, so men must move onto their wife's family land. Maybe that's why it all still works so well!
Girls building tepee-like shelters on the beach - sticks covered with green branches and the odd old cloth. They build and then make fires for cooking nsima - hard to get to the bottom of it , but seems to be a rite of passage about becoming a woman (but the girls are all of 8 years old! Got to get working young here.)
Movie houses are reed shelters booming out B grade hollywood schlock (cheap chinese versions with 20 movies on one dvd - usually horrible kung-fu ones). Kids peering through the slats all around the little shack.
Everything is recycled out of necessity here - the best use of recycling I have seen is the way in which car tyres are shaved down into their component strips of rubber and strong nylon string. These are sold in different thicknesses and are used for everything from building (tying the reed and bamboo together) and thatching to necklaces made from the single strands. It is known as linya. Someone here once said that the whole of Malawi is bound together by linya and it is true.
(Saw a duck tethered by its back leg with linya this morning - being led along with its ducklings following it - duck are a popular relish here. Eddie caught Lyoness dealing with the preparations for duck relish once and it was too sad to see his horrified fascination with the poor dead, headless creature upended in a bucket - he couldn't pull himself away but had the dry heaves and was retching at the sight. I had to gently lead him away, much to his relief. He said, "I am not going to eat that duck, mum," in a faint voice and was reassured to find that he could stick to his macaroni instead!)

Eddie's 3rd Birthday

It was Eddie's third birthday on the 14th. Much excitement from the older boys for days beforehand and many instructions from Eddie about what he needed (a fire engine and a truck and a chocolate cake). Luckily he had mentioned the fire engine long enough ago for me to order one from his adoring granny who sent it up with Buji and Java's adoring granny and it was ready and wrapped on time - don't know where I'd have found one in Malawi! (Well, probably in Lilongwe or Blantyre but that's an two days and one night mission and not always possible as the car only goes when there are guests to fetch or it's a terrible waste of fuel and time.)
But the greatest gift I have ever given was the scale model of the beloved boat, Nankappa - Eddie's face was such a picture of awe and delight when he unwrapped it that I wanted to weep! He has not let that boat out of his sight ever since and slept with it on his bed that first night. At last I got the gift right - so often one buys something and by the time the child gets it, he's already moved onto a new obsession - but for Ed, his love of that old boat is steadfast!
Sadly I couldn't spend the day with my dear children as I had to work and there were streams of guests coming and going so I hardly saw the darling and felt terrible about it! But we managed to squeeze in a celebratory boat cruise around Thumbi in the hour between when some guests came off the island and others were due to go on! Hectic - we raced around, but the kids loved it - there were mattresses left on the boat from a huge party of Spaniards who'd just left - so they jumped about on those and scoffed many bright orange chips and lots of sticky sweets - yuk, but it was such a treat for them to have free reign over a feast of junk food, as they usually never see it, let alone are allowed to eat it!
They sang happy birthday and nursery rhymes and barrelled about happily and were very happy with the whole venture - they don't ask a lot, do they? Actually they do, but it's usually for such simple stuff, the darlings.
Anyway, I insisted on the next day off and we had a lovely lazy day drifting about doing nothing in particular - a treat for me, though that's what they do every day. Later on we broke open one of the cheap toys I keep in store for a rainy (not til December really, but you know what I mean) day, a beading set, and we all made ourselves bead necklaces - even Zoda (who is still wearing his) and Vanessa (who works in Liinu's house). It was all very peaceful.
Have to admit, though, I am champing at the bit to get out of the village now. Need to see something else!

Wooden boats, family outings and wobbly hands

I'm bored. There are guests arriving, but only at 6pm and I have to be at the desk all day in case of people wanting to rent kayaks. Bush and Jurie are heads down doing the books and the kids are frootling about under the watchful eye of Zoda, swimming and colouring in (new best thing for Ben) and getting into spats which I have to sort out every hour. Just loaded them all into the rattletrap to do errands in the village - which is bustling as it's Saturday morning. Got us some dvds to watch tonight - very civilised here - and now have a fresh pot of Chombe tea at my elbow and time to spare.
Had another great afternoon at Monkey Bay last week with Jurie's sister Juleta. She found a pile of down ski jackets - got one for myself to brave next winter if we are in CT (haven't been for the last 3 winters so it might be tough!) and two more to sell. Gorgeous stylish puffy things. Mine is green - a lovely limeish/apple.
Previous week the specials were fleece blankets (which we are actually using every now and then.)
(Just spotted Ben and Buj racing naked along the beach - despite strict instructions that there is to be NO naked swimming. Gone feral!)
Now it's almost a week later - things suddenly got busy. Jurie's mum arrived and Dan left on leave, Jurie got Malaria, so we were short staffed (again!) - all a bit hectic. But did a stint on Mumbo as hostess for escape (it's called work, but really isn't!) - with 5 paediatricians. (Malawi bristles with aid workers - especially doctors! Read Paul Theroux on the subject in Dark Star Safari - an account of his trip through Africa. No rose coloured sunnies on that one!)
Was a great night though and all the guests were lovely and insisted on putting their tables together for meals, so had good conversation again- always such a joy for me. I realise here that I am a bit of a social animal - can take isolation (well always with attendant husband and offspring, the darlings) for just so long then need a good chat! Also need to shop - missed Monkey Bay last week and it's now imperative to go on Tuesday. I know I will never be able to shop in a normal shop again - can't bear not to treasure hunt and find bargains.There - I have revealed myself as an empty-headed twit who lives to shop and talk - may as well live in Sandton, except that it would kill me...
What news of life on the lake? Not much. Zoda found a real carpenter ( a lovely beaming, chubby (rare in Malawi) chap) to make a proper boat for Eddie's birthday - this one is about 40cm long, floats, is painted properly and has every feature of Nankappa in exact, proportional detail - amazing. Cost about R250, which is expensive here, but worth it for such a magnificent piece of work. Think we'll do a picnic on the real boat for the party - cruise around Thumbi island with a boat full of sugar-hyped kids! (Don't worry, Mum, they'll have life jackets!)
Now I aim to find half an hour in the day for myself - I paddled my own canoe (an apt idiom, except it was a kayak) for the first time yesterday and it was a breeze. Bush and I had a rare afternoon off together and took the boys paddling down the lake edge on an adventure. We went to Cape Mac Lodge for a swim in the pool - huge treat, then to the Gecko Lounge for tea (and beer and icecreams - king cones so Ben and Ed in heaven!) and to get dvds for the night, and then to Gaia for the most delicious carbonara! Gaia had two missionary families staying - one forgets there are still people trying to convert the dark hordes in Africa - really extraordinary after all these years - isn't everyone who wanted to be converted already?! The 7 year old, Maisie, asked me in a loud piping tone whether I was a Christian. "Gosh, I don't really know anymore, Maisie," I said and she stared at me in astonishment. I changed the subject hastily.
Anyway - that was the first afternoon we have spent together as a nuclear family since we got here so it was a lovely day. Buj and Java are on Mumbo at the moment so Ben and Eddie are having to play together and are doing so amazingly harmoniously. Plus they have no teacher or Zoda or me to look after them, but they are just getting on with it. They are playing a complicated game involving three sticks of bamboo (a mum, dad and a baby) and it's keeping them terribly busy. It also involves climbing every tree in the garden - no physio needed here in the tropics. I wish I could send Ben's colouring-in to Aunty Brenda with a little note telling her that if you just leave children alone a little, and let them grow at their own pace, even the wobbliest little hand learns to stay in the lines eventually - which is, after all, one of life's greatest and most valuable skills! When I remember her showing Bush and a very tearful me, all the class's efforts and then flinging Ben's wild scribbles on the top of the pile with a triumphant " and this is Ben's attempt!", I am filled with uncharitable and violent impulses! Schools can be such life-affectingly horrible places sometimes - so glad we opted for the Waldorf route.
Time for lunch (bangers and chips and salad - very healthy!), naturally not cooked by me - the joy!
PS Belated pics are of Buj's pirate party in May - complete with treasure hunts (x5!) and walking the plank...

Arrival in Aahfricah

SOON AFTER WE ARRIVED IN MARCH

We have arrived in one (well, four really) piece(s) and all is going swimmingly - often literally as the boys spend all afternoon in the lake or next to it. We are living in our revamped reed house next to the water - the lake has risen way up the beach this year and the lake is only about two metres from our verandah. Everything is looking beautiful - Kayak Africa base camp (our home) is like a jungle, and every tree is alive with birds. One forgets how hideously hot is is out there in the village where trees are scarcer. The enormous baobab at our back gate is all leafy and has fruits hanging abundantly from every branch. That's when you know you are in central Africa - who else has a baobab at their gate! (I suppose the large lake in front of us is also a clue.)
I have a new job! I am officially employed by KA as Guest Operations Manager - whoooweee. This means I meet and greet the punters and take their cash and answer their questions and generally shmooze them. And, more worryingly, it means I am in charge of logistical stuff too and the petty cash system and heaven knows what else! Quite a thing for someone who is naturally rather scatterbrained! I am going to have to have serious lists everywhere.
Today we have no guests coming or going so we are revamping reception and our offices. Fun, moving everything about.
The darlings are wildly in love with their teacher, Dominique, who is so good with them and keeps them very busy from 8 until 12 every day. We all meet for lunch and a swim together after that and then Zoda takes over and they play all afternoon. As soon as dusk begins, we spray them with mozzie stuff and dress them in long pants and tops (Ben's Spiderman suit is invaluable as a mozzie proofer) and stick them on the beds under the net to watch Tintin til supper. They are asleep by 7 every night. Bush and I have taken to sitting on our verandah with a beer and a cup of tea to discuss the day. It's been so nice to have that time together again - our lives have been too hectic since Dec, what with Xmas and then packing.
So I think this can be a good year for us all - full of new challenges and a very very different way of life. It's so much more relaxed, even with a job, though it will hot up a lot as things get busy over Easter. Bit anxious about that!
Ok, tootling off now to rearrange furniture and p'raps have a dip...

Tales (wails) from the tropics

THIS WAS IN MARCH!

Time for another tropical tale or two.
Have swung from low to high and back again, as one does when foisted out of the old comfort zone (a place I adored!)
Was low when for the second weekend in a row, I remained at home while Bush frolicked out on the town and came back two hours later than he'd said (and repented when confronted by the flailingly mad mess that had been his usually calmish wife!). Was ready to hit the road and head on home (except it's not ours anymore as it's rented til December.)
In the gorgeous light of day, however (and day comes with such beauty here - the lake has that mother of pearl sheen and is still as a pond) I regained my sense of proportion, I am happy to report, and haven't flagged since (but probably will again on occasion as I really don't have a circle of friends here and I miss you all sorely.)
Since then have been to Mumbo and back and not even the most useless person in the world could be unhappy when that island is where you can go whenever it calls! I shall add a snap and you will see that it is a place of great splendour.
The kids swam from breakfast to supper, or otherwise played with the ubiquitous (and utterly essential Lego) under the big tree on the beach watched by Lyoness and two island men. (The island men were stationed there to watch out for a small crocodile which has been seen on the island - not really so good for tourists! The National Parks rangers have been trying to shoot it, but so far it eludes them. It won't really swim into the bay, I am sure, but you can never take too many precautions, I think, especially with small offspring.) It all sounds idyllic, but on the first day, the number of screaming brawls between the kids was epic - I think they were over-excited and are still working out the pecking order. Today was much better. While they played and battled it out, Bush, Jurie and I did a full island inspection! Notes were taken and horribly copious lists were made of all that needs to be done. I don't know if it's just our fresh eyes that see so much room for improvement, or if things had got a bit run down. Either way, there is a lot to be done. But that's always good as then you can feel useful and that it was important to come.
So I am off to go on an epic chitenje shop soon, to cover almost every cushion on the place as everything is faded or mouldy after the rainy season. LOVE chitenje shopping!
Best I stop rambling now (Bush has gone for sundowners and again I am home alone - think I must just accept the status quo. I am going to 'do lunch' with Liinu tomorrow before she goes to Finland on Sunday.)

Mangochi

THIS WAS IN APRIL - DON'T KNOW HOW TO INSERT IT THERE...

Went to Mangochi with Jurie, Liinu and Dominique after lunch.

Maize fields full and high and planted right up to the edge of the road. People build rickety little double storey structures that they make a fire under to cook meals and then sleep on the top under a sparsely thatched roof – have to keep a constant presence in the field in case of yellow baboon raids.

Road through the National Park is so beautiful after the rains – huge trees all a rich green against the enormous granite boulders. Even the baobabs were full of leaves and fruits.

Was exhilarated to get out of the village after two weeks in base camp… even if only to Mangochi – a one-horse town if ever there was one. Still, it has big trees lining the streets and is not bad. It also has a great market and I shopped enthusiastically for chitenjes to cover all the cushions on Mumbo. Got spirals and fish on turquoise spots and huge orange sixties flowers on brown squiggles and something that looks like cacti and lotus flowers - words cannot describe these visions! Going to mix them up and send Mumbo into a spin of patterns.

(Mabvuto, the little gnomish fellow who looks after the gardens here, has just brought me a jam jar full of incredible flowers for my desk – all sorts, even three waterlilies. He’s excelling at flower arranging these days!)

Took my first bicycle taxi ride. A bicycle taxi is a bike with a small padded vinyl seat stuck above the back wheel and two tiny foot rests. One perches behind the cyclist hanging onto the seat with one hand and one’s bags with the other. The roads are rather rutted and if you haven’t ridden a bike for a while, it takes a moment to adjust to the balance of the thing – especially when you aren’t in control. And your instinct is to hang onto the driver, but that is not good form and rather too intimate! I felt very self-conscious, a little mzungu lady with lurid rosy handbag and skirt hitched up, trying to maintain my dignity while the locals gazed! It was lovely way to travel, though, very peaceful and quite speedy really.

Liinu later arrived on hers and then Dominique on hers and we met up to discuss chitenjes with gusto. Then on to the fruit and veg market where I bought guavas, fresh speckled beans, avos and bananas and pumpkin leaves all for around R10.

Then to the second hand clothes market where I found a groovy pair of jeans in the perfect size (had to guess at a glance) for K400 (R20) and a vintage curtain for the same price. Bargains! It filled my heart with joy to be back at the market.

On the way home we bought school chairs for the kids - beautiful woven banana leaf ones, and I bought a set of circular baskets that fit into each other like Russian dolls - the biggest is the size of a hat box and the smallest about 10cm across. So beautiful and made by the sweetest crippled man on a crutch. I think I should send home a truckload of Malawi treasures and have a huge sale on our stoep - what do you think?

A shopping list

I sit next to the radio, over which the island chef sends his shopping list to Sutha, the storeman.
This is today's:

bekkedy beensy
dlied fluity
awrenjy
flesh miliky
coco powderer
dite coco
onienzy
eyesi
olenji
butternut dippy
eggplanti dippy
biskitty
bled flour
dessert cleam
and my favorite... moopy bloomy (mop!)